Viscose (rayon)
The oldest and most common regenerated cellulose fibre. Wood pulp is chemically dissolved and spun back into a soft, drapey fibre. 'Rayon' is the US name. Modal and lyocell are its better-performing relatives.
How it’s made
- 1Wood pulp (or bamboo, which is then still viscose) is treated with caustic soda and carbon disulfide to form a viscous solution.
- 2The solution is extruded through spinnerets into an acid bath, where the cellulose solidifies into filaments.
- 3Cut into staple fibre or kept as filament, then spun and knitted or woven.
What to look for
- Pulp from certified forests (FSC/PEFC) and a producer with good chemical recovery
- Branded fibres from producers that publish their process, rather than anonymous viscose
- 'Bamboo' fabric is usually bamboo viscose, not a natural bamboo fibre
Pros
- Soft, fluid drape
- Breathable and absorbent
- Takes dye brilliantly
Cons
- Weak when wet, so it can shrink or lose shape
- Creases
- Pills in some knits
Typical use
- Running:
- Rarely: it holds water and loses strength when wet.
- Streetwear:
- Shirts, dresses, linings, lounge tees.
Sustainability
Impact depends heavily on the producer. Carbon disulfide is toxic, and poorly run plants pollute air and water; old-growth wood sourcing is another concern. Lyocell's closed-loop process avoids most of this.