Lyocell (TENCEL™, Birla Excel™)
A regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp dissolved in a solvent that is largely recovered and reused. TENCEL™ Lyocell is Lenzing's (Austria) brand; Birla Excel™ is Birla Cellulose's (India) branded lyocell.
How it’s made
- 1Wood pulp, often eucalyptus, beech or spruce from managed forests, is dissolved in NMMO, a non-toxic amine oxide solvent.
- 2The solution is extruded through spinnerets into filaments. Most of the solvent is recovered in a closed loop.
- 3Cut into staple fibre or used as filament, then spun and knitted or woven.
What to look for
- A named fibre brand (TENCEL™ Lyocell, Birla Excel™) or an FSC/PEFC wood source: unbranded 'lyocell' is harder to trace
- Blends with cotton or merino
Pros
- Smooth and cool
- Good moisture handling
- Drapes well
Cons
- Can fibrillate (a peach-skin haze) with harsh washing
- Weaker when wet
Typical use
- Running:
- Blended in some tees.
- Streetwear:
- Tees, shirts, trousers.
Sustainability
Among the better regenerated fibres thanks to the closed-loop solvent process.