Mohair
Hair from the Angora goat (not the Angora rabbit, which gives angora). It's lustrous, resilient and takes dye brilliantly. South Africa is the largest producer. Used fluffy in brushed knits and smooth and crisp in summer suiting.
How it’s made
- 1Angora goats are usually shorn twice a year. Fleece from young animals ('kid mohair') is the finest.
- 2Scoured, sorted by fineness and combed into tops.
- 3Spun into yarn: brushed for halo knits, or worsted-spun and blended with wool for crisp, breathable suiting.
What to look for
- Kid or superkid mohair for next-to-skin softness; adult mohair is coarser.
- Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) certification for animal welfare and traceability.
- In suiting, mohair-wool blends resist creasing and suit warm weather.
Pros
- Lustrous and takes colour well
- Resilient and crease-resistant
- Warm for its weight
Cons
- Brushed mohair can shed and feel prickly to some
- Can be pricey
- Animal welfare depends on the farm
Typical use
- Streetwear:
- Fluffy cardigans and sweaters, scarves, summer suiting and trousers.
Sustainability
Animal welfare on goat farms was the subject of campaigns around 2018, after which several brands paused mohair and Textile Exchange launched the Responsible Mohair Standard (2020). Mohair South Africa also runs its own production guidelines.