Suede & nubuck
Leathers with a napped, velvety surface. Suede is buffed on the flesh side, usually of a split; nubuck is the grain side sanded lightly. Nubuck is generally tougher; both are softer-looking and more stain-prone than smooth leather.
How it’s made
- 1Suede: the inner (flesh) side of a hide, often a split, is buffed to raise a soft nap. Lamb and goat give fine, soft suede; cow split suede is coarser.
- 2Nubuck: the outer grain side is sanded to a short, fine nap, so it keeps more of the grain's strength.
- 3Usually chrome-tanned and dyed through; many are given a water- and stain-repellent finish.
What to look for
- A dense, even nap without bald patches.
- Whether it's suede or nubuck: nubuck holds up better in shoes, suede is softer in jackets.
- A water-repellent treatment if you'll wear it in the rain (some 'weatherproof' suedes cope with wet surprisingly well).
Pros
- Soft, matte look
- Comfortable and flexible
- Scuffs can often be brushed out
Cons
- Marks and water-stains easily
- Can't be polished like smooth leather
- Suede from splits is less durable
Typical use
- Streetwear:
- Desert boots, loafers, sneakers, jackets.
Sustainability
Same tanning and sourcing questions as other leather. Using splits makes use of more of the hide.