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cotton

Mercerized cotton

Cotton yarn or fabric treated with caustic soda under tension. The fibre swells and rounds out, giving a silkier lustre, deeper dye uptake and more strength.

How it’s made

  1. 1Yarn or fabric is passed through a sodium hydroxide bath under tension (the process is named after John Mercer).
  2. 2Fibres swell from a flat, twisted ribbon to a rounder cross-section that reflects more light.
  3. 3Neutralised and rinsed. Often combined with gassing (singeing off loose fibre ends) for a clean surface.

What to look for

  • Usually done on long-staple, combed, ring-spun yarns
  • Smooth surface with a subtle sheen and crisp colours

Pros

  • Lustre
  • Richer colour
  • Stronger, less fuzz and pilling

Cons

  • Less soft and lofty than brushed cotton
  • Chemical process, so wastewater handling matters

Typical use

Streetwear:
Polo shirts, fine-gauge knit tees, socks.

Sustainability

Uses caustic soda. Responsible mills recover and reuse the alkali.